A Taste Of Cuba In Mexico

Both cruisers and locals have raved about a local Cuban themed restaurant here on the island. Scott and I have had it on our “to eat” list for weeks, and finally got the chance to go last night. Our friends Ed and Elizabeth, on Skylark, brought a snack and joined us for happy hour drinks aboard Sea Life, before we all boarded the Aluminum Princess for shore.

Once we landed at Marina Pariso, it was a short and easy walk to El Varadero. The small waterfront restaurant is located in a quiet neighborhood, several blocks off of the main road.

The smell from the kitchen as we walked in was heaven…garlicky goodness!

The open air restaurant was made up of rustic wooden tables and chairs on sand floors, and hammock swings hanging from wooden beams. Photographs and art on the walls added to the Cuban theme.

The restaurant was full of boaters, tourists and locals, and we were told that the wait to eat would be an hour. Everything at El Varadera is made from scratch, and the kitchen was backed up with orders for the crowded tables. Wanting to eat some of what was coming from the great smelling kitchen, we chose to stay and wait it out.

We asked if it was possible to sit and have drinks while we waited, and were shown to a table. We chatted and waited for our food, enjoying fantastic mojitos, and great music from the band.

After enjoying some yummy guacamole and ceviche, We ordered a combination platter for the four of us to share. A huge tray arrived, full of shrimp, squid, fish, shredded beef and pork. Portions of carrots, plantains and rice were included as well, and we happily dug in. We were so busy eating, that I forgot to take a photo until we’d already ravaged the tray!

Everything was delicious, and we stuffed ourselves full. We were waited on by several of the staff, and everyone was polite and friendly.  It was a great evening…Viva Cuba!

Elizabeth and I shared my camera. She didn’t bring hers along, and I was too busy eating and drinking to take many, so we shared the load of taking photos. A thank you to her for her help! Here are a few more photos.

“Shells Sink, Dreams Float. Life’s Good On Our Boat!”

An Long And Stressful Night

After the squall passed through, the winds went calm for a few hours. They picked up significantly at sunset, as predicted, and Scott decided to spend the night on anchor watch in the pilot house. We were confident in the Hulk, but wanted to keep an eye out for others who may come our way overnight.

I checked on Scott a little after midnight, and all was well. Just before 4am, the movement of the boat in stronger winds woke me up, and I went to check on Scott. He’d dozed off, so I woke him to ask how things were going. He said that our anchor was fine, and things seemed to be good. I saw something out of the corner of my eye, on our starboard side. It was the white hull of a catamaran, just off of our paravanes…not good! Scott looked to the port side, and there was a catamaran there as well! What are the chances that two boats began to drag at the same time, and came down either side of us?!? Thankfully, both had missed hitting us.

The catamaran off of our port side immediately started their engines, and began to move off….whew. The one off of our starboard, however, was not as quick to respond. Their anchor had caught, and they seemed content to try and stay there until it was light, which did not make Scott happy. We went out onto the cockpit, and saw them putting fenders out alongside their boat. I guess they were preparing for possible impact. Scott shouted for them to start their motors, and re anchor. We got a response in frenzied French…great.

Our paravanes were still out, and the French couple kept gesturing at them, and then talking to each other. We hoped that the threat of contact with the paravanes would urge them to start up and move away. Suddenly, their anchor let loose, and they were adrift again, heading quickly for our neighbor behind us.

We hailed Barry, on Sea Swift, to let him know about the possible threat. The catamaran didn’t have an anchor light on, so it was nearly impossible to see them coming (an even bigger pet peeve for Scott). Scott hesitated for a second, in case we’d wake him, but Barry instantly responded to our vhf call, and I realized that no one in the anchorage was sleeping at this point. Finally, the catamaran started their motors and moved to re-anchor. Both boats ended up ahead of us, but stayed put for the rest of the night.

I was now continually scanning our area of the anchorage through binoculars, for any boats that had come loose. Not long after the catamarans cleared out, I spotted a sailboat coming through the anchorage beam-to (sideways) at a fast clip. It’s scary to see a boat coming through at a fast pace, with those aboard scrambling like mad to raise anchor and regain control before hitting someone or running aground. The boat was headed for another one of our neighbors, and Scott hailed Lucky Seven to warn them. Again, we received an immediate response; everyone was definitely awake and on high alert. The people aboard the moving boat regained control, and headed off to another part of the anchorage.

By now, it was nearly dawn, and we were thankful that the coming daylight would make it easier for us to see anyone drifting our way. Just as the skies were becoming light, our “friend” from the squall appeared, dragging beam-to through the anchorage. They’d been anchored up ahead of us, and held all night in the strong winds, but had now let loose and were heading for our friends on Skylark.

They missed hitting Skylark, thankfully, but snagged their anchor. Reacting in a flash, Ed tied a buoy to his anchor line,  so that he could locate it later, and then cut it loose. The dragging boat, which now had Ed’s anchor and the cut line tangled with it, moved past Skylark without further incident. Having to go back for an anchor later is much better than colliding with a boat, or being drug along with it; incredibly fast thinking on Ed’s part!

Unfortunately, our next neighbor was not so lucky. The boat was still moving along, beam-to (again, sideways) and was headed right for Calcutta. Igor is alone on the boat, and had gone down to try and sleep, after having been up all night. He was awakened by a jolt from the impact of the dragging boat. The couple on board had been asleep as well. They were now awake, but doing nothing to help the situation. Calcutta is much smaller, and the two boats were now tangled together. Igor went below, and appeared again with a sizeable board, that he used to try and dislodge himself from the lumbering boat that was now caught on his bow pulpit.

Ed, on s/v Skylark, got into his dinghy and went to help. He ended up pulling the man from the dragging boat out of the water, who had jumped in for God knows what reason, and could not get back on his boat. Still caught, Calcutta was now dragged along with the larger boat into a third boat on a nearby mooring. The two slid along the third boat, and with the help of Ed, and Kevin, from Lucky Seven, Calcutta finally managed to free itself. The dragging boat had finally started their motors, and again raised their anchor to relocate.

The winds were still whipping, and now poor Igor had a mess to deal with. He’d cut his second anchor line, in an attempt to get free of the dragging boat, but his primary anchor ended up tangled around the line of the moored boat. By now, our neighbor Rick, from Angel Eyes, had come to help as well. He got on board with Igor, and Kevin stayed in his dinghy, and they finally managed to get the anchor free, up, and back down again in a new spot.

It upset Scott that he was not able to go and help Igor. We’d loaded the Aluminum Princess onto the flybridge for the coming weather, in case we had to move quickly or pull the anchor. The motor for our inflatable dinghy is not nearly powerful enough to maneuver in the strong winds. However, since our pilot house sits higher above the water, and we look through glass rather than canvass, we hoped that it helped to be able to warn others.

As all of this was going on, another boat was dealing with a medical emergency. There was confusion on the radio as to how serious it was, but eventually it was understood that the man was having a heart attack. The dinghies nearby were helping Igor on Calcutta, and were unaware of the situation. Another cruiser, at a marina in the lagoon, lowered his dingy and sped toward the anchorage. In the meantime, Elizabeth on Skylark alerted one of the dinghies with Calcutta, and Kevin sped over to assist. After a trip to the local clinic, and then a transport by ferry and ambulance to the hospital in Cancun, it was determined that Harold had experienced angina. He was back aboard his boat and doing well later that afternoon.

It was by far our most stressful evening yet. We finally have confidence in our anchor, and Scott’s placement of it and of our chain, but in a crowded anchorage, we are always worried of others dragging. It is maddening to strain through binoculars into the blackness, constantly scanning for each anchor light, making sure that everyone is still in place.

By the next evening, the winds had subsided a bit, and everyone’s anchor had stayed put for the day, so Scott abandoned the pilot house for our bed. We brought the iPad with us. Scott uses it to plot our anchor and it’s swing. It has become his “wooby” at night. We checked it several times throughout the night, and I did a few quick scans in the pilot house, but all was quiet. We, and the rest of the fleet, enjoyed a good night’s sleep. I think we’ve all earned some flat-calm!

“Shells Sink, Dreams Float. Life’s Good On Our Boat!”

An Eventful Squall

It seems as if we are constantly contending with wind and weather fronts. The most recent predicted winds to shift from southeast to north, with a chance of squalls (thunderstorms, why does everything nautical have to have it’s own language?), and blow at in the low 30 knot range for a day or so. This was far from the worst we’ve seen, but it definitely proved to be dramatic.

We saw the skies change, felt the winds picks up, and prepared for the squall that was most likely coming our way. It didn’t take long for the thunder and lightening to kick in, and then the winds hit with a bang. An abrupt, 180 degree shift sent 40 knot winds whipping through the anchorage.

There have been several new arrivals here over the last week, as people start to make their way toward various spring and summer destinations. Some are waiting for weather to head for Cuba and Florida. Others, like us, plan to make their way south, toward Honduras, Guatemala and Panama. These boats haven’t been through a big blow here, and are unaware that the bottom here in on the softer side. Strong, sudden shifts in the wind can jar an anchor loose without warning.

So back to the squall. As soon as the winds shifted, some of our new neighbors started to drag anchor. Unfortunately, one of them headed right for our bow. Scott immediately turned our motor on and put us in reverse, moving back as far as he could without having to re-anchor. The boat continued to come at us. It had no name on the transom, so we were unable to hail them on the vhf. This is a huge pet peeve for Scott, as it makes situations like this more difficult and dangerous. He went out on the bow and shouted at them to start their motor, and avoid a collision. The couple on board just stared at him blankly. Scott’s reaction…@!#%!!

The squall passed, and the boat finally started their motor, but only to stop just ahead of us. Their anchor wasn’t set, and they drifted back toward us again, again just missing our bow. Scott assumed they may have been thinking the squall was all that was expected, and that things would settle. He went back out onto the bow, and shouted to them that the front was still coming, and that strong winds would blow for another 24-30 hours. The man looked at Scott and said, “Well that ain’t good!”

After almost drifting into us again, and with some “persuasion” by Scott, they finally started to raise anchor, still drifting just off of our bow. After what seemed like hours, they slowly started to moved away, but veered in the direction of where our chain laid below. The boat’s anchor was still down in the water as they moved along. Scott was terrified that it would snag our chain as they passed over it, drag it with them and dislodge the Hulk. Thankfully, they missed our chain, and moved off toward the other side of the anchorage. Crisis averted.

In the meantime, our friends on Skylark dealt with their dragging anchor immediately, starting the motor and keeping the boat into the wind as they found better holding. Ed then put a second anchor out for additional strength. It’s a shame that the boat we dealt with wasn’t as quick to act.

Here’s a video of our encounter with them. We cut the 20 minute footage down to about three, so you can get the idea. You can see them come toward us, by the grace of God pass of of our bow, completely turn around and come back at us before finally moving away.

 

Once again, I’m singing praises for the Hulk! It held fast through the squall without a blip. This is getting to be old hat for the beast!

“Shells Sink, Dreams Float. Life’s Good On Our Boat!”

Golf Carts And Fishing And Pets, Oh My!

Scott has been on several spear fishing outings with some of our cruising neighbors. The winds and surf prove a bit challenging, and most of the area has been “fished out,” but he enjoyed the exercise, and time spent with the guys.

Even though it’s often rough, the rocky coastline on the east side of the island is always scenic.

I spent time in town with the girls during the fishing expedition. We lingered at the Rooster Cafe, and enjoyed their free and fast internet! It was a miserably hot and humid day. I even spied an iguana, who normally seek out the sun, lingering in the shade of his hole.

On St. Patrick’s Day, Scott and I rented a golf cart, to explore the island a bit more than we’ve done on our bikes. Before leaving, Scott had some box play with Howard, to wear him out for the day. It seems any box will do.

We set off with our friend, Elizabeth, from Skylark (unfortunately, her husband was under the weather, and stayed behind). While Scott stopped to get beer and ice, for our golf cart cooler (must have a golf cart cooler!), Elizabeth and I walked through the grounds of El Milagro Hotel & Marina. It has endless, colorful tile work and original accents.

And even an iguana hotel! We have learned since being here that iguanas live in holes. I don’t know how occupied this “hotel” was, but didn’t get close enough to find out. Iguanas ick me out.

After enjoying a lunch of fish tacos with Elizabeth, we dropped her off and headed to the south end of the island, where the Black Cat was decked out in green for the day. To get to the bar, we had to walk through the hotel lobby and then down a switch-back trail of ramps. They sure made you work up a thirst..good for business, I guess!

It was temping to stay for the coming music and festivities,  but since we were traveling to Playa del Carmen the next day for the wedding, it seemed smart to take it slow.

After our “hike” to and from the bar, we set off to explore the narrow peninsula that borders the east side of our anchorage. There is a sizeable undeveloped area on it, with grasses, trees, and a few trails. Scott deemed them golf cart worthy, and we went “off road.”

We had to return the car by 5pm, so it was time to head back. There was quite a bit of congestion as we made our way through downtown. It seems that all of the companies require a 5pm return.

It was definitely the most quiet St. Patrick’s Day that I’ve celebrated in years, but we had a great day.  It was also nice to enjoy the day without having to push ourselves along, like we had to do in Staniel Cay, Bahamas! Here are some more photos.

“Shells Sink, Dreams Float. Life’s Good On Our Boat!”

 

 

 

 

 

A Field Trip To Cancun…And More Repairs

We’d planned a “field trip” to Cancun.  I wanted to do a run to Walmart, and gather things that I haven’t been able to find here. We’d also been given the name of a place who could look at our alternator, so our agenda was set.

Until, that is, Scott noticed our refrigerator temperature was warm. He checked the compressor, and found that it was locked up. After trying a few things to get it to turn over, Scott “condemned” it, and we now need to replace it. Luckily, we have a 110 volt holding plate back up system (that runs when the generator is on), so we’re not completely dead in the water. With a recommendation from a cruiser, we added a marine store to our list of Cancun stops.

We boarded the ferry, and headed off on our 20 minute ride to Cancun. Of course, we have to sit outside, and in the front seat…where you catch wave spray.

Our boat at anchor is visible from the ferry terminal here in Isla.

We arrived in Puerto Juarez, which is just minutes from Cancun. This terminal  is the main hub for people traveling to and from Isla Mujeres. Toursits, locals and workers all use this ferry. The stern end is always loaded down with luggage and supplies for the island. It can be a real zoo in the afternoons.

We hailed a cab, and made our first stop to drop off our alternator for repair. Scott had a letter he’d translated into Spanish, as to what was wrong, which made things go quickly and smoothly. They agreed to check it over and email us.

Our next stop was to the marine store, Servimar, to ask about a compressor. It seems to be the West Marine of the area.

Luckily, a man behind the counter spoke great English. He helped Scott find the parts in a catalog, and told us that he’d call his rep and then email us with a cost. If he can get the part, shipping will take two weeks. He charges a percentage, and tax here is 16%, so it won’t be a cheap fix, as in, there goes a month of cruising!

Our last, and most exciting stop for me, was to Walmart. Happily, we found a McDonald’s inside, and stopped for some much missed fast food! Ordering was a bit challenging. They still had the breakfast menu up, and we had to struggle through with the girl behind the counter for our lunch order. She got the manager involved, who quickly knew what we wanted. As we were paying, he changed the sign to lunch items..

We cased the entire Walmart, skipping the stove and refrigerator aisles. We loaded up our two rolling duffel bags with snacks, canned goods, meats (pork loin), cheese (all we get on Isla are various kinds of manchego) and other special things that we can’t find in Isla Mujeres…like chocolate chips!

We arrived at the ferry terminal loaded down with our duffel bags in tow, a large soft-sided cooler over a shoulder full of cold things and a backpack full of crushable stuff. Everything but the backpack went onto the back of the ferry, with all of the other luggage and supplies for the island (which included cases and cases of alcohol). We traveled home, to unload our loot…a dry ride this time.

“Shells Sink, Dreams Float. Life’s Good On Our Boat!”

 

 

 

 

Another Lazy Week

Our week was quiet and lazy. With strong winds predicted, we did a quick grocery run on Monday, and then braved the winds on Tuesday in the Aluminum Princess, to meet our friends Ron and Delores at The Soggy Peso. Ron and Delores have been spending their winters here in Isla Mujeres, and away from Wisconsin, for the last twenty years (before that, they’d escape to Cancun)! They arrive in November, and head home again on the first of May…genius!

They have been an invaluable source of local knowledge, with Delores answering tons of food questions for me (which items are and aren’t sold in Mexico, or which ones I can find in Cancun, etc.). I have had a challenge with Mexican butter. It just doesn’t bake up the same (yes, I bake onboard). Delores travels with Crisco butter flavored baking sticks, and was incredibly generous enough to part with some, giving them to me. Hurray! Edible cookies for Scott!

Our friends are a staple each day at the Soggy Peso, spending 2-3 hours in the afternoon enjoying a few beers. We stopped in to get my Crisco sticks and have a drink with them, before heading off to Taco Night with the cruisers.

After leaving Ron and Delores, we made our way to Oscars, where cruisers meet for happy hour at 5:30; Tuesdays for tacos, Fridays for pizza. From there, we walked about a mile to a local taqueria. Our route took us along one of two inland lakes on Isla Mujeres. It was an area that we hadn’t yet seen, so it was an interesting walk. We enjoyed tacos, conversation and some dancing before heading back to the boat.

We stayed put onboard for the middle of the week, amid stronger winds and eventful nights of near misses. Howard kept us amused, as always. His latest favorite toy is a piece of boat line that Scott tied for him. It’s so fun that he brings it along to dinner.

With warmer temperatures settling in, Howard likes to nap outside of his play box, where it’s cooler. Scott’s beach towel draped over a chair provides a protected nap spot, where Howard can fully relax.

We headed back to Oscars on Friday, for pizza night. They make a really good pizza, and every order comes with garlic knots, which are heavenly! People bring whatever they brought to drink for happy hour on the pier up to the restaurant for dinner, making an affordable meal at Oscars even better. Our bill for a 15″ pizza with the knots, and tip, comes to 11.00…terrific!

Here are a few photos from our lazy week.

“Shells Sink, Dreams Float. Life’s Good On Our Boat!”

 

 

More Wind, And Two Close Calls

The winds picked up again last weekend, and we are now on day eight of strong winds, this time from southerly directions. Fortunately, the Hulk continues to keep us put, but there is always worry about another boat  dragging anchor, and hitting you along the way.  We had two close calls this week, with the same boat!

Unfortunately, most of the boats here do not light their anchor lights at night. This is both frustrating and scary for us. It makes it virtually impossible to see the boats at night. During strong winds, you may not see someone who has come loose and is dragging toward you. Or, if you’re the one dragging,  you cannot see that you may be about to hit another boat. It’s just as frustrating for us to come back through the anchorage on the dingy at night. By the time you see a boat, you’ve usually come to close for comfort.

A 38′ steel sailboat from Germany arrived on Sunday, after a passage from Honduras. It anchored ahead of us, just before sunset. The winds were consistently in the low 30 knot range, so Scott spent the night in the pilot house, checking our position (which I think insults the Hulk, but you can never be too safe) and scanning the anchorage through binoculars (which throws a bit more light onto the area).

Just after midnight, the newly anchored boat let loose and started to drift back quickly. She missed us by 15 feet, which was way too close! Scott lost sight of it, as the south winds pushed her toward the north end of the island.

However, she was back the next morning, again anchored ahead of us. With the winds still at their strongest, Scott spent another sleepless night in the pilothouse. Again, the boat broke loose, and at about 3am she missed us by 12 feet! After Scott restarted his heart, he watched the boat drag back and get stuck aground on the snorkel area behind us.

The next morning, five dingys descended on the boat, and made several attempts to free her from the shallow water. There appeared to be way too many chiefs, and few Indians in the group, so Scott stayed put. They managed to free her for a minute, but the anchor wasn’t up in time, and it got stuck hard on something below. We saw someone go into the water to try and free it, but he had no luck. The anchor was cut loose, with a float to mark where it was, for more retrieval efforts later.

Finally,  the poor boat was pushed and pulled free, and the fleet of dingys dispersed back to their boats. As she made her way past us, Scott cringed at the thought of her anchoring anywhere near us again. Thankfully, she made her way back to the lagoon, which is a bit better protected from wind.

We found out later that on night number two, the two girls who arrived on the boat weren’t even aboard. They had spent the night aboard another boat, which made Scott livid. Had they stayed in the anchorage near us, I’m sure that he would have confronted them about being so careless. I was grateful that they’d headed for the lagoon.

Thankfully, the strongest winds have passed, and Scott is back to getting a full night’s sleep.

“Shells Sink, Dreams Float. Life’s Good On Our Boat!”

 

Back To Isla

The forecast calls for winds to be stronger out of the south this weekend. We didn’t have protection from that direction, and Scott’s faith in the mooring ball in any wind was slim. There is a marina nearby, but it’s a bit out of town, and we’d rather save the dollars. So…we headed back to Isla Mujeres.

It was disappoing not to have more time in this cute town. We arrived on Monday afternoon, and didn’t get into town until Tuesday afternoon (i am battling the last part of a cold, and couldn’t muster the energy until then). With Scott wanting to get some snorkeling in, we had little time time in town on Wednesday and Thursday.

We’d just gotten the lay of the land, and now it was time to head back north. Even though our first few meals weren’t the greatest, we would have liked more time to explore the local haunts, and enjoy some beach time. However, as I’ve said before, the weather rules us now..so off we went.

With winds building in the next few days, we chose to leave this morning. The forecast called for light and variable winds, and things had been calm during our past few days in Puerto Morelos. We started out for a smooth trip north. However, once we rounded the reef, things got bumpy and stayed that way…unnervingly so. I haven’t met a cruiser yet who enjoys a head sea, and we were in a fairly unruly one. It was so frustrating! The winds were blowing at only five knots, but we were in large swells, with the bow up…and then down. Howard was very irritated by it, and I started to worry he’d throw up. I too was irritated….Scott, was out in the cockpit fishing.

The first two hours were pretty crappy, then it finally settled a bit. We went in and out of two more rough patches, before smoothing out for good. I kept getting comments from the “peanut gallery,” aka, the cockpit: “I think it’s starting to calm down.” It wasn’t:…”Seems like it’s getting better out here.” It wasn’t, at least not from where Howard and I sat in the pilot house!

We’re finally learning that when you come into and out of a current in this area, the seas change for the worst. At one point, we came into a washing machine of waves and white caps. Ahead, you could see where it ended and smoother water began, so we just waited it out. Scott thinks that we’d gone into an eddy current, a smaller current that spins off of a larger one. I like the “smaller” part of that thought.

On the fishing front, we traveled out to water over 900 feet, but came up short. Scott had his bait out for mahi and larger type fish, but the season is just about over for mahi. He was hesitant to change bait, worried he’d reeling in God knows what. I think he was just enjoying time in the cockpit.

The resorts that cram Cancun’s coast came into sight, as we approached the area leading to Isla Mujeres.

As we got closer to Isla, Howard sat up and began to sniff the air. I think it was familiar to him. We’ve spent five weeks here so far, so I’m guessing it smelled like “home”..perhaps we’re growing roots!

We traveled past the crowded beaches, ferry terminal and a tour boat or two as we approached the anchorage. There were three or four new boats, but Scott was thrilled that the spot we’d previously been anchored in was still available.

As soon as the anchor chain released, Howard made it known that he was hungry. After that, he spent hours outside, and realized  that our inflatable dingy that was stored on the side deck  made a good jungle gym.

Scott was not amused…cat..claws..inflatable. However, play concluded without incident.

We are now back in the company of the fleet.

We’ll spend some more time here before clearing out of the country and heading toward Honduras. Here are a few more photos of our trip back to Isla.

“Shells Sink, Dreams Float. Life’s Good On Our Boat!”

 

Maintenance And Repairs

We have been without internet this week, so I’m now catching up on posting:

Scott is a stickler for routine maintenance, believing that it extends the longevity of systems. Afterward, he makes a point to check what’s been done, testing a new part that has been replaced or looking for leaks if hoses have been disconnected during maintenance, etc. He also does a thorough visual check of the area. This can expose small, affordable problems before they become big, expensive ones, usually rearing their head at an inopportune time.

So as we waited for good winds to travel south to Puerto Morelos, Scott planned to spend a few hours cleaning out our sea strainers (which get clogged every few days with sea grass here) and topping off the water in our battery bank. The anodes in the motor were to be changed, and the heat exchangers on the raw water circuit cleaned.

Cleaning the heat exchangers required taking hoses off, and while off, Scott checked to see that they were clear of any debris (bits of the old anode, etc.). When finished, he ran the motor to test everything and check for any leaks, from having the hoses off. Running the motor revealed a leak in the raw water pump, which he hadn’t worked on at all. Then, when he tried to shut the motor off it wouldn’t stop, so it had to be shut off manually at the motor.

Scott addressed a leaking shaft seal on the raw water pump first. We didn’t have a spare seal kit onboard (shocking, as I feel we have two to three of everything part and tool related), but did have two back up pumps (one, brand new and the other a used one that came with the boat). Scott started by installing the used pump, but it leaked at the seal even worse, so it came out and the new one went in. So we went from having two spares to zero, but the pump is now back to working leak-free.

Now to the motor shut off. Scott smelled some electrical burn at the exact time the motor wouldn’t shut down, and then the start circuit breaker would trip. Our solenoid, (An electrically powered magnetic switch that pushes a lever to snuff off the fuel, stopping the motor) was original to the boat, which is 32 years old. As a side note, Scott loves that our motor needs no electric power to run. When it wouldn’t shut down, he could manually power it off. We can have a complete power failure, and still have the motor chug along.

Scott had purchased a new solenoid to have on hand, knowing ours was old, but it didn’t come with a bracket that holds it in place. So he set about removing the old solenoid from it’s bracket. It proved challenging, and it finally had to be cut out with an angle grinder (complete with sparks). The solenoid was replaced, and the motor would now stop when called for, but there was still the electrical burning smell.

The initial thought was a short circuit in the wiring harness of the motor. Upon further investigation, this proved not to be the source of the problem. Scott continued to performed multiple tests, and determined that the exciter circuit for the starboard alternator was drawing too many amps. He changed out the alternator with a spare that we had, which was again on the boat when we bought it. By the way, all of these things were at the far depths of the storage under our bed. Not fun to get to! We’re not sure how long this one will go, due to it’s age and wear, so we plan to have the old one rebuilt.

So, an easy day of regular maintenance turned into two full days of repairs. But, because the issues were found during regular maintenance and visual inspection, they were easy fixes while at anchor. Had Scott not done his maintenance and found this, we would have had salt water in the bilge and could have eventually overheated the motor.

We’re now ready to make our way to Puerto Morelos, jobs and fixes complete!

“Shells Sink, Dreams Float. Life’s Good On Our Boat!”

Our Next Move

We’ve been here in Isla Mujeres for almost five weeks now, lingering for many reasons. The past month has been fraught with cold fronts, bringing many days of unfavorable winds to travel south.  However, it’s given us more time to explore and enjoy the island, meeting new people along the way (other cruisers, people who spend winters here and those here on vacation). It’s also been nice to relax and be lazy a bit, after our busy month in Key West followed by a stressful stay in the Dry Tortugas and an exhausting passage here. We’re enjoying cheap cervezas and sunsets.

So now we’re discussing our path from here. In the next few days, we should get good wind to travel 6-8 hours south, to the town of Puerto Morelos. We’d planned to leave on Monday, but Scott was dealing with some sickness that he brought back from Chichen Itza. Puerto Morelos is a small fishing village, with restaurants and shops. We’ll also have the opportunity for some easy day trips inland.  After a week or so in Puerto Morelos, we’ll head back here to Isla Mujeres to do some provisioning at the Walmart in Cancun ( yes, Walmart is everywhere) and clear out of the country.

From here, we plan to make our way to Honduras. We’d planned to go to Belize next, but have now decided against it. Friends that we’ve met here were robbed at gun point a month ago, when they were anchored off of Belize. They weren’t anchored alone, or in a bad area. Four men came aboard in the middle of the night, robbed them and assaulted one of their visitors. Scott and I had already heard about incidents of theft against cruisers in the area, and also that customs officials could be difficult. Scott had read about our friends’ experience on a cruiser website, but meeting them and hearing their story first hand drove it home..Belize is out.

We’d also planned to spend hurricane season in Guatemala’s Rio Dulce, but that plan has changed as well. Water in the Rio is muddy and dirty, and Scott is starting to go mad for good snorkeling and fishing. He hasn’t been in the water since the end of November, except to check our bottom and the anchor. We were too busy in Key West for beach time, and January was downright cold. February has been better, but the cooler temps and winds have kept the water a bit chilly. The snorkeling isn’t great here, and Scott can’t fish.

Our current plan, which will stay fluid,  is to head for Honduras at the end of March. We’ll spend April and May in the bay islands of Roatan, Utila and Guanaja. In June, we’ll begin the journey toward Panama, where we plan stay for most of hurricane season. This will give us access to good fishing and snorkeling sites, as well as small towns and villages to explore.

In the meantime, Howard has not been so lazy. He’s chewed fighting holes in his latest box, in preparation for battle with Scott (the battles are epic).

So we prepare to wind down our time here, and move on to explore new places!

Here are a few photos, from our lazy days here the last week.

“Shells Sink, Dreams Float. Life’s Good On Our Boat!”